Chinese Food Trucks Carve A Niche Near Campuses - Menuism Dining Blog, July 24, 2017
As we
have mentioned on a number of occasions, Mainland Chinese students
studying at American universities have created a demand for authentic
Chinese regional food that has resulted in countless campus towns and
cities across the
country getting their first taste ever of authentic Chinese food. But
these Mainland Chinese students are not getting their homeland food fix
solely through restaurants opening up near their local campuses.
Rather, other interesting options are available
for these students longing for a taste of home.
Despite the nationwide proliferation of authentic Chinese food near
college campuses, I found to my surprise there was very little in the
way of authentic Chinese food near the University of Southern California
in Los Angeles. USC’s 5,000 Mainland Chinese
students had to eat somewhere, and it’s hard to believe that USC’s
Mainlanders would somehow be the only group of their compatriots in the
US not to be subject to the “Chinese stomach.” In trying to solve the
USC puzzle, vague information appeared referring
to a group of Chinese food trucks which camped near USC’s international
student housing. When I drove there I did see one Chinese food truck
called Tasty Wok Express, but the other three trucks there were taco
trucks with names like Guadalajara Tacos and
Fluffy Tacos. While finding that one truck was encouraging, it could
hardly service 5,000 Mainland Chinese students.
But
finally I got the lead I was looking for. A food writer living near
campus said that despite the names of the trucks parked there, all four
of them were actually trucks selling Mainland Chinese food. Returning
on foot I found this was the case. The trucks were all marked with
Chinese lettering and posted pictures of dozens of Mainland Chinese
dishes that they served. That added up to about 200 Mainland Chinese
dishes between the four trucks, enough to keep a good
portion of USC’s Mainland students very happy. And who cares if the
trucks said “tacos”, given that at least at one of the trucks I visited,
neither truck employee understood English and one of the customers had
to translate my order to them for me.
As it
turns out, Chinese food trucks have carved a niche for themselves in
university settings, particularly in urban campuses in large cities
where opening a sit down restaurant for the benefit of Chinese students
might be problematic due to high operational
costs. This is certainly the case with USC in Los Angeles, so it’s not
surprising to see the same routine nearby Columbia University on the
Upper West Side of Manhattan. At Columbia, the phenomenon has taken on a
slightly different personality, as the full
sized food trucks seen at USC have mostly been replaced by the smaller
carts typically found on the street corners in midtown Manhattan,
leading to more limited menus.
Perhaps the star of the show at Columbia
with the longest lines is Uncle Luoyang. The Uncle Luoyang truck
features Shaanxi and Henan style food, with their liang pi cold noodles
and pork burgers among their most
popular items. Also popular are their $7, three item rice combos,
perfect for starving Mainland Chinese students. The Uncle Luoyang truck
was featured in a student film, which you can see on YouTube.
Uncle Luoyang now also has a sit down location on Amsterdam St., though
it has to humor the locals with sushi and Americanized Chinese dishes,
too. There are a number of other Chinese food carts around Columbia.
The Healthy Food cart also features $4 and
$7 rice combos with a rotating daily menu of 15 entrees. Two other
Chinese carts by Columbia don’t even have English names, and also serve
Mainlander type Chinese food. All of these Chinese carts are based out
of Flushing, so it’s a long trek for the operators
in addition to the nine hour days spent on campus.
But the city with the greatest number of college campus Chinese food
trucks is not Los Angeles or New York. Rather it’s Philadelphia, with
multiple trucks on various campuses. The largest congregation is by the
University of Pennsylvania campus, where there
are seven Chinese food trucks, plus a number of other Asian food
trucks, found along Spruce St. and Walnut St. There are additional
Chinese food trucks parked at the nearby campus of Drexel University.
And Temple University also has its share of Chinese
food trucks. However, unlike the trucks near USC and Columbia,
Philadelphia’s campus food trucks tend largely to Americanized Chinese
fare, rather than Mainlander food. This likely reflects that campus
food trucks are a longtime staple in Philadelphia, with
probably 70 trucks of different stripes in the University City area
alone, and aimed at the student population in general.
Food trucks aren’t as big of a thing in Chicago, but near the University of Chicago, trucks do line up on Ellis St. between 57th and 59th
Streets. Regular participants in that scene are
the Yum Dum dumpling truck and BAO Mobile. And in the Boston area,
the Savory Food Truck has turned Chinese campus food truck dining into a
cottage industry with trucks permanently parked by Harvard University,
Harvard Medical School, MIT, and Northeastern
University.
Food trucks are not the only nontraditional
option used by mainland Chinese college students to get their provincial
style Chinese food in their campus digs.
The most interesting option is the use of delivery services like To
Go 626,
to have food ferried from the San Gabriel Valley to campus. Dozens of
top Chinese restaurants in the San Gabriel Valley, such
as Chengdu Taste, Szechuan Impression, SinBaLa, Xi'An Tasty, Class 302,
Gui Lin Noodle, Din Tai Fung, Shaanxi Gourmet, 101 Noodle Express,
Savoy, and Beijing Pie House, have aligned themselves with delivery
services.
And while the delivery services derive
most of their business from local residents, they'll deliver almost
anywhere if you pay them the approximately $1 a mile delivery charge.
Consequently, the San Gabriel Valley Chinese food delivery businesses do
a thriving business delivering food to Mainland
students 45 miles away at UC Irvine, as well as other campuses
including USC. While a food delivery charge of $45 may seem
incomprehensible to you or me, it’s a pittance to the rich mainland
Chinese students we have talked about in the past. Now you still
might wonder why would a UC Irvine student pay $45 to have authentic
Chinese food delivered from the San Gabriel Valley, when Irvine itself
has dozens of authentic Chinese restaurants, all within convenient
driving distance in your Maserati or Lamborghini.
The answer lies in the fact that Irvine's Chinese restaurants skew
toward their local residents, meaning Cantonese, Taiwanese and
Shanghainese style food. Irvine has only a small (though growing) number
of Mainland style Chinese restaurants, so if you really
want the food of your home province and have money to burn, delivery
from the San Gabriel Valley is the only way to go.
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